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Question: How do hair chemical processes change the shape and texture of the hair?
Answer: A good example of hairs pliability is pasta. Think of hair like a strand of spaghetti, When it’s dry it’s hard and shaped in a certain way, but when it’s soften by water it can be reshaped and dried into that shape. Chemical bonds are responsible for that ability in hair.
Hair is primarily made of keratin and contains four types of molecular bonds Polypeptide bonds, Ionic/salt bonds, Cystine bonds and Hydrogen bonds. Knowing how the four types of bonds work in the hair will help you utilize the chemicals that are available to us more efficiently.
Polypeptide bonds – called sugar bonds, hold amino acid chain to another. The attachment is by negative/alkaline to positve/acid attraction. The pH balance of the hair affects these bonds.
Ionic/Salt bonds - are responsible for about 35% of the hair’s strength and plays a very important role in hair coloring because it attaches the color to the hair.
Cystine bonds – are affected by all chemicals and determine the resistance of the hair, a factor very important when perming.
Hydrogen bonds - helps in the hairs ability to change shape and is responsible for nearly all of the hair’s elasticity and it is the only bond broken down by water.
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